9,10,11,12
MfG
Ich vergas die 9, wenn dann komplett da das Gehäuse auch Einlaufspuren vom Kolben haben könnte.

9, 10, 11 und 12.

Versteh ich das richtig, dass der Motor im Moment draussen ist, weil du ja auch die Reparatursaetze fuer die Einspritzventile von mir gekauft hast?

Falls dem so ist:
dann wuerde ich auch noch dies wechseln, besser kommt man nicht dran:
7 Spannschiene 11 31 1 703 717 1 0.103 kg €28.40

Spannschiene wollte ich jetzt naemlich auch an meinem M70 Motor wechseln, da gab es frueher sogar mal eine Rueckrufaktion, jetzt werden da verstaerkte eingesetzt.
Aber so ein V12 Motor ist nun mal nicht so schnell ausgebaut und es ist fuerchterlich eng im Motorraum.

Finde hier gerade Bilder vom Spanner E36 M3
E36 M3 (S50/S52) Timing Chain Tensioner
have replaced my tensioner with the item from the S50B32 myselfe.

Note that the S38B36 chain tensioner is different then the iem for the S38B38, which is the same as the one used on the S50B30 engine. On the S38B36, an oil-accumulator (diaphragm) is bolted onto the tensioner itself. This helps the tensioner being effictive directky after at cold-start-up when all the oil still is in sump. However, this 'complexity' adds two additional seals and thus two more sources for leaking. Also the diaphragm itselfe could come loose over time making matters worse. When I removed the diaphragm on my car, it was already loose and rather contaminated with oil as can be seen on dsc02963.jpg (attached)

Picture dcs03008.jpg shows the internal parts of the S38B36 and the S50B32 chain tensioner. Picture dsc03013.jpg shows the S50B32 tenioner installed on my S38B36.

Removing the old tensioner is rather easy, but you can't reach it without removing some parts. From underneath, the A/C pmp and the O2 pum sits in teh way and from above, one needs to remove the 'windscreen-flui reservoir'.
One needs a 17mm hex socket to remove the bolt that holds the diaphragm (3.6 only) and the tensioner-socket (both 3.6 and 3.8). The spring comes loose after which you can remove the tensioner-plug. Then, remove the tensioner-socket with a 32mm socket.

Reinstalling the S50B32 tensioner is a bit more tricky as you have to make sure that the pug is properly alligned and stays alligned. This is a bit difficult as the plug slides back when the 32mm socket (with seal!!!!) is installed. I solved this by adding a bit of Castrol TWS 10W60 in the socket to prevent the plug from falling back. Finally, Torque the socket with 55nm and you are ready to go.

One important note: With the tensioner out, it is not impossible that the chain skips a tooth or two. Two tooths is a big 'no-no'. If your chain is OK, the replacement of the tesnioner should not cause any other problems, but when the chain lenth has increased, be very wary to do this. Then I'd rather replace the chain, guides ect. Checking the chain-length is a different story though

With the S50B32 tensioner, I noticed my car is much more silent after cold start. It also 'spins' much more so it was well worth the effort.
http://www.m5board.com/vbullet…ming-chain-tensioner.html